Freezer Match 2015

Took the M1 Carbine out for the freezer match. This is a “fun match” our club runs, any rifle, any sight. I took out my M1 Carbine as had not had much trigger time with it yet.

It was a nice crisp day in the low 30’s and a little overcast. The match was a 40 round off hand match. I had never so much as fired my carbine off hand so I did about as poorly as I had expected to do. But this was a good start towards getting the hang of shooting this thing.

Unfortunately on my last target the lug on my M1 Carbine flat bolt sheared off so I wasn’t able to finish the match. There are picture below of the broken bolt.  It seems I have some work to do on this carbine before Perry.

All and all it was a great match, there was chili, coffee, and door prizes with the benefits going to charity,  I’ll need to keep practicing during the off season. The National Matches will be here before I know it!

 

20150125-191404-69244119.jpg20150125-191405-69245111.jpg

The Broken Bolt:

20150125-201853-73133789.jpg

20150125-201852-73132788.jpg

20150125-201854-73134722.jpg

How To Use a 1907 Sling

A sling is more than just a strap to carry the rifle. Properly using a sling can provide a sturdy shooting platform.

I prefer a Ron Brown 1907 sling. While slower to sling up, I feel more stable with a 1907 over a web sling.

The sling pictures is a John Weller 1907 I picked up at Camp Perry a couple years ago. Sadly John passed away since then and these slings are no longer made. Ron Brown slings, sold by Creedmoor sports are the best slings on the market. They are thicker more sturdy and stretch less than most other slings.

First you will need to have your 1907 installed correctly. CMP has a detailed write up on this below that can help get you started. However, they do it wrong. Put the frogs facing in towards the rifle. As you’ll see below this will put the frog on the top when slinging up which is easier to manage and less likly to slip.

http://thecmp.org/training-tech/armorers-corner/1907-sling-installation/

20141224-153224-55944504.jpg

Once the sling is set up correctly remove the frog on the short strap (aka tail) of the sling from the looped long strap. Then pull it free from the rear sling swivel.

Adjust the sling so there is a large enough loop to fit your arm in. Pull the upper keeper away from the frog so that it is easier to adjust.

20141224-153221-55941085.jpg

Turn the loop clockwise so that the loop faces you. The frog should be facing more or less to the left or away from the rifle. Be careful not to do this step twice in haste and get the sling twisted.

Then stick your support arm through the loop.

20141224-153221-55941955.jpg

Push the sling up your arm as far as it will go. There is some amount personal preference here. The key is to do it the same every time. I use the pad on my jacket as a reference point.

Once you have the sling all the way up draw it as tight as you can. I do this by pulling on the lower half of the loop with my left hand and holding the upper half of the loop with my right hand.

20141224-153223-55943621 (2)

Once the sling is nice and tight, slide the upper keeper all the way down to the frog which will lock it all together.

20141224-153225-55945388.jpg

Then you are ready to  go. Place your support hand over the sling and grip the stock.

20141224-153226-55946209.jpg

You will need to determine what the best length and support hand position Is for you. Rig up, get into position and dry fire a few times until you feel comfortable.

10255428_10152615206264669_1969578304801705464_n

My left handed wife informs me I should add that this depicts a right handed shooter.

Shoot by wire?

Over at guns.com they ran a story about a new digital trigger prototype. There is not a lot of info on how it works other than “an electronic signal releases the trigger.” From watching the video below I’d speculate it’s activated when the trigger which just pivots on the trigger pin and spring hits the little blue button behind the trigger.

This certainly won’t be service rifle legal in the foreseeable future. Electronic triggers are not uncommon in the paintball/airsoft world it will be interesting to see if they catch on outside of a novelty . What do you think?

[yop_poll id=”4″]

 

Video linked from Guns.com you tube channel

Leveraging the Laws of Thermodynamics to Remove a Stuck Barrel Nut

I picked up a nice free float rail from ALG defense, so I needed to take the barrel off of my Palmetto State Armory (PSA) mock dissipator. Sounds easy right? Well not so much. Using my improvised upper clamshell and multi-tool I couldn’t even budge it. I managed to lift my workbench slightly off of floor in the process. This was pretty impressive as my workbench is a couple hundred pounds and screwed to studs in two walls.

The front sight was canted so I knew it was probably over torqued but it was worse than I expected.

After a few more tries and a can of liquid wrench, I gave up and ordered a torque bar and a heavy long handled PRI barrel wrench.

20141002-204711-74831340.jpg

http://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-tools-supplies/rifle-tools/barrel-tools/ar-15-m16-308-ar-barrel-extension-torque-tools-prod27452.aspx

http://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-tools-supplies/rifle-tools/wrenches/ar-15-m16-ar-10-barrel-nut-wrench-prod27412.aspx

Even with the new tools ,the barrel nut wouldn’t budge. Before I broke out the saw I thought I’d give a trick I read about a try. Science suggests steel (the barrel nut) contracts less than aluminum (the receiver) when frozen. So I tossed the whole upper in the freezer overnight with the jäger and my wife’s homemade Popsicles.

20141002-205954-75594420.jpg

20141002-205955-75595317.jpg

Luckily that was just enough to break the nut free and was able to move on to installing my ALG rail, which was much easier.

20141002-210159-75719591.jpg

If I were to do it again I would have ordered the more expensive geissele reaction rod as it has nice flats built into it. The flats would make it a little easier to work with.

20141002-210800-76080055.jpg

Co-Witness: Absolute or Lower 1/3

 

 

The internet is full of speculation as to what the “best” co-witness is for your red dot and iron sights.  Frankly there is no right answer, you have to decide what works best for what you are trying to do with your rifle.

First of all what is co-witness? Sights should always be co-witnessed, which means that the iron sights and the dot are zeroed at the same distance. Zero the irons, zero the dot  and they should both point at the same place. The decision point is in determining if you prefer Absolute Co-witness or Lower 1/3. The choice really comes down to what optic mount height you chose,  the irons will stay the same height.

Lower 1/3 Co-witness is just like it sounds, the iron sights (specifically the front sight) will be in the lower 1/3 of the optic. The idea behind this is the shooter can look over or flip down the rear sight and have a “less cluttered view” but, more on that later.

 

20140912-210824-76104174.jpg

Absolute Co-Witness means the front sight is in the middle of the optic. The idea here is cheek weld is the same for both sighting methods. This is the method I prefer. As you can see below it is not as cluttered as some suggest.

20140912-210825-76105348.jpg

 

I’ve gone a step further than most with absolute co-witness.  As I am a believer in marksmanship with iron sights, I use a fixed rear sight in conjunction with an Aimpoint T1. I’m not a tactical trainer, but I like being able to keep my head in the same place to use both.

The LMT rear sight allows me to use the irons to shoot known distances using the elevation knob and the red dot allows me to acquire targets faster and shoot from weird positions. Best of both worlds in my humble opinion.

There are some things the shooter will need to “be smart” about with this set up.

1. For taking quick shot, use the dot. Don’t try and line up the irons.

2. Focus on the target if using the dot, focus on the front sight if using the irons.

3. Use the 0-2 aperture once the zero has been established, the smaller aperture is too slow for quick target acquisition. If there is time to dial in a known distance, there is time to flip the aperture to the small side.

 

20140912-210826-76106237.jpg

Larue Tactical offers two very nice Aimpoint Micro mounts: the LT751 (absolute) and LT660 (lower 1/3). Both are solid mounts and they have a nice quick detach leaver and repeatable zero. See the mounts here.

They have an interesting picture that they use to try to make the case that with an absolute co-witness, part of the target will be blocked.  Compared to the pictures above I’m not sure that is an honest description. The eye should be close enough to the rear sight that it is almost entirely blurred out especially with the 0-2 aperture. Even with the shooters’ head all the way at the rear of the stock, the sight will not block the target as pictured below.

In my opinion, it all boils down to the user knowing when to line up the irons and when to rely on the red dot.

 

 

Picture linked from this thread http://beta.ar15.com/archive/topic.html?b=3&f=18&t=542595