New Hand Loads and Winchester Garand Range Report

With 3 weeks until the National Matches, perhaps imprudently, I’ve decided that I’m not going to use HXP for the Camp Perry again this year. I was able to find enough CCI BR2 primers despite the lingering bottleneck from “the great panic of 2013.”

Before you read on you have to agree to work up your loads properly and not just create the load.

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After trying several loads I had very good results with Hornady 168 grain BTHPs over 46 grains of IMR 4895 and a CCI BR2 primer in a 77 HXP case. I also used a Hornady OAL gauge to stretch the COAL out a bit which may not have had much effect but it made me feel better.

I was very happy with the performance of the new Winchester Garand I’ve made several posts about recently. I will take it to a local match this weekend to work it out a bit but I didn’t have any functional issues and it performed very well. Assuming this continues I think I’ll take it to Perry for the JCG match.

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Fitting a Dupage Stock on an M1 Garand

Recently I purchased a nice field grade Winchester from the North Store. It is a Springfield 66 rebuild and came dressed in a nifty “non-match” glass bedded stock.

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While it locks up nice and is very nicely crafted it is not legal for JCG matches and, I am determined to shoot its nice LMR barrel in competition. So, I decided to swap the stock with an unfinished stock from Dupage.

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First thing I did was give it a coat of Raw linseed, inside and out. It comes with all the metal parts however they were not installed. Then I installed the stock ferrule which was relatively easy. I did not have to remove any wood to get it to fit so I just tapped it on with a hammer and a piece of scrap wood.

Completing the front handguard was a little more difficult. The hand guard spacer that came with the set was giving me some trouble so, I took one from an extra handgaurd I had. I carefully tapped this in using a socket wrench extension and a hammer. Then I tapped the tabs of the spacer down into the front handgaurd ferrule with a punch. It takes 3 or 4 hands to do this and you’ll need to block the back (or bottom) of the spacer with something while bending the tabs on the front down or you’ll just push the spacer out. I just laid an extra punch on my workbench and placed it under the spacer. To get the front handguard to fit in the upper band I did need to file the “lips” carefully so it was able to move freely.

While the rifle did “drop in” I needed to do some fitting. Most of the work was sanding the area around the operating rod. It was dragging a bit mostly on the top of the area circled below. This too a fair amount of sanding and checking.

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Then I rounded the sharp corners in channel towards front of the stock so the wood did not contact the barrel, this was fairly simple. If the barrel contacts the stock here, this will put upward pressure on the barrel and mess with your point of impact.

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The rear handguard came properly shortened so that it left a little gap between the wood and the receiver. I sanded out the inside a bit so it did not touch the barrel.

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I would highly recommend using a “badger ordnance” pliers to remove the rear hand guard retaining band. Otherwise it is very easy to break the rear handguard.

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I also sanded the bottom of the rear hand guard and the top of the stock so they did not touch.

While I had the gas tube off I peened the barrel just to keep the front sight nice and tight. Unlike every other Garand I have this one came with a properly timed gas lock. I think this really speaks to the care taken with these 1960’s rebuilds. I did have to break down and buy a gas lock wrench as it was on very tight. This one came from amazon and did a nice job.

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Check out Gus Fisher’s forum on M14forum.com he is very knowledgeable in proper stock fit I printed out several of his threads while working on this.

I can’t give you a good range report just yet as I ran out of ammo at the range (I know) I’m hoping to get her out in the next few days. If all goes well I may take this rifle to Camp Perry in a few months.



CMP Winchester Field Grade Initial review.

As I mentioned in my last post I had a chance to pick out a Field Grade Winchester at the CMP North Store. For now just some pictures full report later. It has a nice LMR barrel with ME<1 and Springfield Armory rebuild markings from the 60s. Other "features" include a "glass bedded" stock, NM op rod and a Lead pot annealed receiver. 20130618-211517.jpg

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CMP North Store Report 6.13.13

I found myself in the Sandusky area for work so i braved the bad weather and swung by the CMP north store today. It was nice and dry inside with plenty of coffee and a surprisingly nice selection of rifles.

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First and most importantly the 1917 “twins” are still there.

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There was a nice selection of barreled receivers, M44s, chromed 1917s, Garands, and “bad” krags. Except for one of them the Krags were in pretty bad shape one was rusted shut. They were only $50 I seriously considered taking the nicest one home but searching for all the parts would probably be annoying.

HRA service grades, service grade specials, and field grades were plentiful. There were no service grade Springfields but there was a nice selection of field grades all had ME>2.

There was a full rack of “rusty” Kimbers I don’t know much about these rifles but they all appeared nice I didn’t see a spot of rust on the couple I handled.

What drew my attention was a rack of about 30 Service and Field Grade Winchesters. The service grades were in great shape, one had a matching WRA barrel.

I left with a beautiful field grade Winchester with an LMR barrel ME<1 TE=2 and an NM marked op rod. I realize it post war maybe even 60's rebuild but I couldn't put it down. Full report later in the week when it shows up. In the meantime here are some slightly blurry pictures. 20130613-194739.jpg

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M1 Garand SLED

I have been using the “SLED” for a almost two years now, it’s a very handy device.

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It is a simple modified clip that allows the a shooter to single load by inserting the round into the Garand’s internal magazine instead of inserting the round into the chamber.

There are two major benefits of using this contraption. First, feeding from the magazine reduces the risk of slam fire. Frankly I’ve never seen or heard of is happening to anyone at a match but it is a valid concern. Why I use a SLED is because it makes loading, especially one handed while in the prone position, much easier. Using the SLED can also allow the shooter to keep the rifle shouldered while reloading which can help keep a consistent position.

Once installed it is easy to use just push the round down into the magazine, then pull back on the charging handle. It’s important not to put pressure in the charging handle while inserting the round, else you give yourself a case of Garand Thumb.

I painted my SLED orange to help me notice when it is still in the chamber.

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It’s important to remember to remove the SLED before the rapid prone stage. I keep a flat head screw driver in the front pocket of my shooting stool so when I forget, it’s not so hard to pop out.

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Here is a quick video of how to insert and load the SLED.

And how to remove it.

If you are handy you can build your own see ray-vin for instructions. http://www.foundry.ray-vin.com/m1sled/m1sled.htm